I left you with three major pieces of receiver horn on the desk. Follow along as I make a fairly accurate rendering of this to house my hacked electronics. Let's start with the translucent cap. 

I was unable to get the horn's cap off that night, so I measured it in place.  

ReceiverCapV1.JPG

I left the inside corner sharp on purpose, I wanted to make sure this left me with the most simplified base for when I got the real one off... I figure I'll actually print/finish/cast this in a urethane resin. I'm not sure how PLA and Bondo will obstruct the radio waves. Next thing I sketched up was the Coax connector area.

CoaxJackV1.JPG

I intend on making this the actual connector for the receiver, as it fits both USB and Ethernet jacks (physically, holding them up), which is why I left all of the internals out. I'll have to see what will grant me the better physical jack connection. To Mouser! And Newark! Yeah... that makes a lot more sense... Don't use a USB-A connection... Go for Micro B or B or something smaller. Hindsight and all that. I should really just go for a single USB-C connection and call it a day. get a Micro B slot on the other for additional power or something. I can waterproof this stuff no problem, so that card is called already.  I shouldn't even be dealing with this now... Fool.  On a side note, this isn't 100% accurate, because there are little flares at the base keyways for about 2-3mm, but they only stick up about 0.5mm, so I just left them off.

Back to modeling, The only other thing I have left to model is the main body. I'm planning on making this, more or less as-is. There's the data pad, for the company sticker and all the major info, but I'll probably leave that off and just sharpie any relevant info onto the first few models. I'll make one on the side. That should work. So we'll start with that. One of the great things about making parts like these is the use of the "Mirror" function. this way I spend all of my time, making careful measurements of the one side, and then spend 30 seconds making the other. 

Side A, 

Side B, 

The only thing I have to do to this model is add attachment points for it, Case screws and electronics mounts, stuff like that. But a lot of that will be dictated by the electronics I install, which I have yet to start working on. 


Many Moons Later...

I've made lots of progress since I last updated this... I have designed and mostly fabricobbled together the mounting bracket, and have worked out most of the major components for structure and power. I'm still waiting on the stencils to come in, so after that, I should be all set to finish the major construction...

The basic support structure will be made out of some PVC DWV fittings and Schedule 40 Pipe, along with some custom bracketry. I've modeled the general idea in Revit: 

The Parts-list - so far - is as follows:

  • 90* 2" PVC Elbow
  • 45* 2" PVC Elbow
  • 2" to 1-1/4" FNPT PVC Adapter 
  • 2" PVC Coupling
  • 2" PVC End Cap
  • 2" x 10' (7'2" actually used) PVC Pipe
  • 1-1/4" x 3" Galvanized Pipe Nipple

Had I taken a closer look at the intended space, I should have just used a regular 45* Street Elbow, but I bought the parts on a whim and decided to wing it. Live and Learn I guess... Another thing to note, I had a lot of 2" PVC lying around, this could probably be done even cheaper if you used a smaller diameter pipe. I had two sections of pipe that added up to 7' so that's where that number came from. A single 5' length should bring you down by about $1.20 at my local parts store at the time of writing, disavowing sale prices.